The September 13th departure from the Coal pier in Longyearbyen was sealed with a powerful performance by 14 men from the “Store Norske Mannskor”- sharing songs and folklore from Svalbard’s rich history. All 100 guests were onboard soaking in the moments before we threw the lines for this, what has since been dubbed – the trip of a lifetime!
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones that you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
– Mark Twain
The 6-hour sail to VanKeulen Fjord and Bamsebu teed up operations for an early start the next morning to offload volumes of items needed for the Hearts in the Ice overwintering.
While Sunniva, Hilde and a robust shore team offloaded gear, provisions and equipment, including 2 BRP scooters, dozens of guests joined Expedition Leader Yann, his team and Hiti’s new family member Ettra for a hike to Kapp Fleur de Lys and surrounding area.
The preparation and logistics for the 9-month stay at this remote hut are not for the faint of heart. The epic offloading of the scooters was a sight to be seen and hard to believe possible. The seas were rough and the surf pounding the shores. While the BRP scooter was being towed by a rib boat in a 14.5 feet red boat the most steadfast Captain Tormod Karlsen proclaimed “You might have your Hearts in the Ice, I have my heart in my throat!” The split second the scooter (fastened to a pallet) came into shore the team of 12 man-woman hauled all 350 kilos one step at a time up to Bamsebu. Never doubt that a small group of committed people can perform a miracle! Miracle it was!
The day was full of practical logistics; offloading and securing backup fuel, unpacking provisions inside the hut, securing backup provisions in polar bear proof barrels outside, filling a 1000-litre water tank and stacking clothing and citizen science gear.
Back onboard everyone was treated to a most personable, powerful, soul-inspiring concert by Joss Stone with bassist Celine Dos Santos and guitarist Steve Down. Was this really happening? Tears welled up from so many as we could not contain the enormity of the projects undertaking and the fact that every single person onboard was a climate caregiver! The trip brought us all together in song, art, science, friendship, love, community and a commitment to all do our part in this pressing climate conversation.
Close family, dear friends, science partners from NP, UNIS, Scripps, NASA, BCIT, Sponsors including BRP, Global Accent, Ellen Kvam, Polar Latitudes, Hurtigruten, Power Controls, Framgangere, Strategy Together and Centric GC all played a valuable role.
The Media/Press onboard included The Big Story- US documentary film team, Scandinavian Traveler-Inflight magazine, Canadian Geographic-RCGS, Firbeint Film, Nanouk, Travouge, Sven Olaf Sundgaard- Borton Overseas, Fabelaktiv, Love Exploring and Team Joss Stone.
Hearts in the Ice’s commitment and dedication to create a global platform and dialogue around climate change issues have a stronger base and foundation and is only growing.
Words escape us as we try to capture all of the details of our time onboard the ship before everyone bid us farewell as the rib drove us to the shore of Bamsebu at 16:00 hrs on Sept 16th.
We walked to the end of the spit with our 2 year old Malamut “Ettra” and watched rather verklempt as the M/S Nordstjernen with Captain Tormod at the helm (the kindest Captain you could hope for) took a sail past us and then turned to head out into the open sea. We waved and waved and waved to each and every one of our dear people onboard. We could see that everyone was on deck- very emotional!
Plenty of chores ahead
We are now one week into our stay here at Bamsebu. The days have been busy with unpacking, reorganizing and finding space for our personal and collective items. We have taken a few boat trips to surrounding beaches to collect logs and been busy cutting, chopping and stacking our heat source for the winter. We still do not have enough wood to see us through the cold, dark winter months ahead so more work awaits us. Water is also an issue and we will keep collecting fresh water wherever we find it.
We have tested our communications equipment from MetOcean Telematics/Mission Link and have had great success with connectivity. We lost all power from the device for about 48 hours when the battery died and would not charge- likely because we left it out in the cold. Everything here has its own temperament and adaptability – problem solving skills require patience and persistence.
Our Iridium Satellite phone has been a necessary link to help us sort out when the cargo ship will be in the area to deliver goods, how to flush the salt water out of one of our engines and how to release and demount the engine after transport and the locked tiller arm on our Evinrude. We managed to solve both of these issues and we must say- it feels so good to just “do it”!
Ettra could not be a more loving, gentle companion. She listens and runs off-leash and you can bet that a whole world of smell and adventure has opened up for her.
We have been collecting insects for Borge Damsgaards project through UNIS and collected our first salt water and phytoplankton samples for Alison Cusick at Scripps Institute of Oceanography. We have a lot of work to do here and we take it all seriously, we also play and have gone running, danced to Motown music, had our red wine and eaten potato chips while watching Pretty Woman and Indiana Jones.
With only few weeks left before we lose the daylight we ask- What will I see when I cannot see, shutting out the earth light to give way to the starlight and the moonlight?
Our monthly school talks start this week. We hope, with all hope, that every single one of you realize the power of One. One voice. One action. One thoughtful decision. We only have one Mother Earth.
With Our Hearts in the Ice – we embrace the planet!
Thanks!
A special thank you to everyone that joined us on our send-off voyage. Every single person made this so special.
Some special mentions : Steinar, Magne, Vera, Bente, Hege, Lea, Anne Mette, Tim, Flin, Carina, Kit, Ragnar, Kjell, Dag, Marti, Yann, Tormod and the fantastic Nordstjernen team, Jarle, Joss, Bettina, Ellen, Maria, Pascale, Maia, Marit, Kim, Allison, Borge, Eric, Liz, Johan and Brit.
Until next time!
I’m thrilled to checking out your adventure for world.
Thank you.?
I’m so excited to read about your trip/adventure of a lifetime. Your work is so important and much appreciated! Thank you. Much love and warmth to you three and stay safe!
I am so very excited to see how this whole project moves forward and am certain that you will see how affected the Arctic is by the climate change occurring! Excited to see how you both manage your time and cope with the isolation and darkness!! Crank up the music and as they say, “Dance like nobody is watching”, because most certainly, nobody will be watching!! Hugs to you both, much respect!
Rob -We will absolutely dance like no one is watching! Ha! I was just telling Hilde about you and how much you have inspired me over the years. You have been a powerful and pivotal role model for me. I will never, ever forget the massive bday cake you brought me years ago when I spoke in Ottawa. Hugs to you. xxx
Dear Sunniva and Hilda thank you for your heartfelt and informative summary of your set-up and first week at Bamsebu. You ladies are an inspiration to all of us who watch from a distance, but who are with you in spirit. I appreciate your dedication to doing research in such extreme weather and isolation while assisting with the very real growing concerns of climate change that we face for the future of our beautiful Mother Earth, and all creatures great and small. Your task at hand comes with many challenges for you and I sincerely thank you for doing this. Looking forward to more of your posts. God Bless you and keep both of you and Ettra safe. Sharon Urdahl
Thank you for update ? while reading I could see you running in the beach and chopping woods and Ettra running free. I will be thinking on you and you have a special place in my Heart ❤️
You two are loved beyond measure. We are with you in spirit — you have many hearts with you in the ice. Thinking of you every day xoxoxo
You brave and crazy girls!!! What a beautiful, heartfelt post… it’s one we have all been waiting for. We loved this “ once in a lifetime” trip and will forever be grateful and thankful that you included us in the journey. You are right… we are ALL concerned citizens. You give us hope and inspiration and help to strengthen our resolve to find purpose in these days when the climate IS the greatest challenge facing mankind.
Be safe…continue to work and play… and know that we are all holding you in our hearts .
Much love to you both… and of course, the entire ships mascot, Ettra! ??♥️,
Best wishes on this lifetime adventure!!! Looking forward to your posts as you travel down this wild road! Hugs, Jo-AnnPye
Ps( did you ever receive my envelope with the letters?)?
I am so delighted to be reading this today and sending much love and warmth to you both. Thank you for this important work that you do! Cooper and Cheebie also send love and are a little jealous of Etta. They are happy that you have her with you as well. Love to you!
Sunniva and Hilde – I’m sending all my friends to the blog and the website – more and more people are supporting you every day and helping to spread the word! I’m thrilled to have been there with you as you began this incredible journey, and we’ll all be with you every step of the way. These first few weeks are just the beginning steps in a vital process of collective exploration and discovery. Bless you both for leading the way. I have a small request . . . please look for aqua colored orbs in your photos. Many of us picked up quite a number of them in our photos after we dropped you off at the cabin! Big love to you both and to Ettra. Looking forward to your next post – be well!
Congratulations on all you have achieved to launch this adventure! We are pulling for you with love and admiration.
Wonderful to hear of your courageous adventure. Cheering you on from Squamish
Happy to hear your getting settled. Once you’re done getting your exercise, storing wood for the winter, let’s get those Undersun resistance bands unpacked and warm your bodies with some great workouts!!
I so enjoy reading about your adventure. I live in Victoria BC Canada
Good luck with your work
This is awesome!!! So thrilled for you two. Congratulations. Know that you are supported and encouraged every day!
This is amazing! Did you see some nice aurora in the last week as well with Rory the Aurorasaurus dinosaur? It was driven by a rotating “coronal hole” feature on the Sun… so it might come back in ~27 days (the Sun’s rotation) to visit you again! Speaking of movies, Bettina, Allison, Armando and many others watched the heart-warming aurora movie “Chasing Steve” (on the USB drive I gave you) the last night after you left. There was a great response, and I was delighted to share some members of the Canadian aurora citizen science community with them… and am excited to share your mission with them. You are not alone!
Thank you from my heart to honor Mother Earth. I think of you and love to hear more of your stories.
Bonjour Sunni et Hilde ??♀️ Sunniva you always amazed me. So happy you have Etta with you. I missed that part about the dog! It takes crazy and fearless women like you to prove (for those who still don’t believe) scientifically what’s going on with Gaïa.
DANCE LAUGH BE HAPPY
You’re in my ❤️
Halh7Skweyal from Squamish ~ My class was able to connect to your live stream on September 26th. We were on the waiting list to be one of the lucky seven classes and got the word that we could join a minute before you went live. The excited silence in the room was awesome. The topic of ‘plastics in our lives’ is hot in our schools and community. We will have fun viewing and analyzing the graph data that was shared, which will play a key role in how our school is moving forward this year. We now have a handful of new websites to take our inquiry deeper too. Thank for inspiring us with your passion and a science lens. We look forward to your October connection on Climate Change.
Would have loved to have joined you for the big send-off. Great to see the photos. I will follow your work and discoveries with great interest. Some of your challenges remind me of my cousin Kristen and her family’s lives living so remotely above Great Slave Lake in the NWT. Sending love and light to both of you. I know you are in your element, Sunniva.